Prepare
 

Tools required:

Nylon Safe Open Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T4 Star driver
Razor
Metal paint scraper
Steady Hands

Contents

We have it in our hands, lets see whats in the box.

iPad 32GB Wi-Fi
USB Cable
USB Power Block
Manual

Up Close

Some basics of the iPad:

Height: 9.56 inches (242.8mm)
Width: 7.47 inches (189.7mm)
Depth: 0.5 inch (13.4mm)
Weight: 1.5 pounds Wi-Fi model, 1.6 pounds Wi-Fi + 3G model.

9.7 inch LED backlit widescreen muti touch display with IPS technology.

1024x768 res at 132 pixels per inch (ppi)

Fingerprint resistant oleophobic coating

Step 1

WARRANTY ALERT: Once you open the iPad the warranty will be voided.

We will have to use a nylon spudger to open the unit. Take the spudger and run it around the edge of the outer bezel. You will break some of the clips but they can be replaced later. You can also use a thin metal paint scraper to jimmy in the small gap.

Three cables to remove prior to pulling the halves apart. Unplug all three from the mainboard.

Remove these clips and be careful not to tear the cables.

Top shot of the board with various connectors ready for removal.

Step 1 Continued

Once the three cables are unplugged, we can set aside the 2 halves.

Look at how big these dual batteries are. Amazing size coupled with dual batteries gives the iPad some much needed juice!

Connection is solder free like the iPhone 3G & 3GS. We are glad Apple decided to go this route for easy DIY repairs.

Step 2

In order to remove the display and digitizer, you must remove some surrounding screws.

After the screws have been removed, gently pull the display out of the front bezel. Remove the display from the top down so you dont damage the displays light sensor.

Shot of the back of the LED backlit display.

iPad LED display repair part: 821-0974-A

Other P/N listings:

LP097X02, SLA2 LGD
6091L-0948B 100118 R61 J4101JAPM61R60948B2

Step 3

Here is the iPad digitizer with the display removed. There are two screws holding the home button circuitry in place. No need to take this PCB out unless you need to replace it.

iPad Home Button PCB repair part: 820-2756-A, EF-12 94V0

iPad Digitizer repair part: 821-0757-A

Step 4

Lets move on to the removal of the dock and Wi-Fi antennae. There are five screws to remove this part. Two on the dock attached on the back panel, two attached to the mainboard, and one on the long antenna cable.

Once you free the dock pad, flip it over to expose the Wi-Fi connectors. Pull these two connectors up carefully so we can set aside the dock pad. Remove the small plastic retainer clip too.

Wireless chip: 339S0107, LGA76 TYPE B

ModelE2381

iPad Dock Cable repair part: 820-2701-A

Step 5

Removal of the iPad mainboard is simple. Two more screws along with the removal of a few more clips (all the clips are easy release).

The board was made by AT&S. To view the chips, you must remove the shielding fisrt. Use a razor and start lifting the tabs.

iPad Mainboard repair part: 820-2740-A

Broadcom chip: BCM5973KFBGH, HS0951P11, 952278B1, APPLE 343S0446

A2 chip identifier: 338S0805-A2, 09528HBR

Chip identifier: Toshiba TH58NVG7D2ELA89, AG2773, 09509AE

A4 chip identifier: N26YFNO 1004, YNK170YA 1001, APL0398 33950084, K4X2G643GE-JGC8

Step 6

Shot of the iPad speakers. Two screws to remove, and one board connection. The speakers are not held down with any adhesive.

One screw to remove the power button assembly. Oops, we seemed to have lost the power button in the process....

Three screws to remove the hold slide & volume controls. The board clip for this module can be lifted up and pulled out.

Headphone jack is removed by one screw. Markings: Apple FT 821-0795

Step 7

View of the back panel antenna. This is attached to the center of the back panel with strong adhesive. To remove this, take a metal pry tool, or something flat to get under it.

You can see that this is pretty tight inside the casing.

Markings: Apple Inc. 056-3117-65, 1513346-1 rev 65, HF/PB Free, C0510

Back panel cleared of parts.

Step 8

Batteries inside the black case bezel. In order to remove the batteries (which are wired in parallel) we must remove the black tape on the top side.

Once the batteries are out of the bezel, we can check the markings and replace if needed. One great thing about the iPad is the fact that Apple didnt solder the batteris in. Just like the iPhone 3G & 3GS, the iPad uses the same type of battery connection.

Back side shot of the batteries.

Markings:
+ATL 12.6Wh 3.7V-
741-0025-A
Apple P/N 820-2480-A
A0021FB3V1

Completed!

Overall, the tear-down of the iPad was fairly easy. The only difficult part is getting the display free from the back half. Tabs that have broken off the front bezel are easily repairable.

We found the wake button...whew!